The NBA came into being in 1949 when most of the league’s players were white and mostly wore suits and skinny ties. After the Civil Rights Act of 1964, basketball players got flashier and funkier. Inspired by the rise of R&B music, a young Magic Johnson was iconically photographed in a voluminous fur coat entering the tunnel. The widespread adoption of television during the postwar era allowed NBA games to be broadcast to a national audience. The excitement of professional basketball broadcasted into people's living rooms propelled the league's stars into global brands, leading to a significant surge in fashion trends and popularity as NBA players became trendsetters. Through the 1980s and 90s, Micahel Jordan inspired trends in oversized suits before Allen Iverson’s jaunty hip-hop aesthetic that tools us into the early 2000s. The late Kobe Bryant ushered in slender charcoal suits and ties reminiscent of the NBA’s inception; a more ostentatious Lebron James was recently photographed in a pearlized black suit, with Van Cleef & Alhambra bracelets on his wrist and a hefty stone-encrusted gold piece around his neck. Today, it’s impossible to go to any major fashion week without seeing a plethora of fashionable giants.
Fashion serves as a canvas for self-expression and individuality, two elements that are synonymous with the fluid and creative nature of basketball. During the 1960s, Wilt Chamberlain's destructive and mesmerizing game caused Converse Chuck Taylors to sponsor him. This led to the foundations for the signature shoes of Magic Johnson and Micahel Jordan. Chamberlain’s attire was mostly unbuttoned dress shirts with a medallion showing and flared suit pants, which many NBA athletes can still look to for inspiration.
Walt Frazier helped fuel NBA fashion during the 1970s, embodying the fashion trends of the Disco era, which were mink coats, capes, colorful dapper suits, obnoxious hats, and bright shoes. Playing for the New York Knicks, his introduction of high fashion was seen as a dose of soul under the bright Broadway lights.
Magic Johnson and the Showtime Lakers changed basketball with their fast-paced offense built on lightning-fast passes and flashy dunks. As a 6’8 point guard, he drew attention on and off the court with draped tailoring and an extravagant wardrobe. As the salary cap expanded due to the increased attention of the Boston Celtics and Los Angeles Lakers rivalry, NBA players became synonymous with luxury, but none looked more natural amongst the Los Angeles Palm trees and Lamborghinis as Magic Johnson.
As the Celtics-Lakers’ rivalry ended at the start of the 90s, Michael Jordan brought color to the game through his shoes. The NBA’s dress code stated that shoes had to be 51% white and match what the rest of the team was wearing. Nike partnered with Jordan to create the Jordan 1 Chicago infused with red. Nike paid the $5,000 per game fine each time Jordan wore the shoe, and people began to see their footwear as an extension of themselves. Looking at any Pinterest board today, it’s safe to say their defiance has had a major impact on popular culture.
Where former players dressed to stand out, the longtime 76ers guard Allen Iverson dressed so provocatively that the NBA Commissioner David Stern introduced a dress code. Iverson’s gaudy jewelry, oversized jackets, and fitted hats reflected the streetwear that was popular amongst his childhood friends. While the dress code forced players to change how they expressed themselves when they entered the arena, sat on sidelines, and conducted interviews - Iverson remained a rebel, and some credit it as costing his career. His influence in fashion cannot be overstated.
In today’s NBA climate, the players are emboldened to express themselves and have their brand image. Once the dress code was adopted, NBA players began to take pride in dressing up in suits, and their competitive nature began to form in the shape of fashion. With the rise of social media, players began to showcase their outfits to the world. The latest generation of NBA All-Stars wears such unconventional prints, patterns, and silhouettes it’s hard to believe that the dress code is still in place.
The NBA remains the epicenter of sports style and will continue for the foreseeable future.