With the myriad of winter, spring, and summer collections on the runway, it’s easy to focus on the well-known designer names. Maison Margiela, Simone Rocha, and Michael Kors are some of the few prominent designers that come to mind. While fashion is having somewhat of a renaissance, embracing unique styles and self-expression more than ever before, it is important to understand the new faces making their way to the spotlight of the fashion world. Here are five up-and-coming designers who are paving the way for the fashion industry:
Born in Singapore and based in New York, Ling studied Fashion Design at Parsons School of Design in New York City and Central Saint Martins in London. She worked with brands such as Thom Browne and The Row. Before studying fashion, she studied sculpture and performance art - these skills shine through in her designs. The label Grace Ling was founded on 3D printing and CGI technology. Thus, designers can predict the materials needed for each garment, producing zero waste. In addition to the sustainable nature of Ling’s designs, her clothing explores the natural shape of the human body by combining simple shapes and futuristic materials. In her latest collection, “NEVERLAND,” she referenced “the synergy of Modernists and Surrealists, like Brancusi and Les Lalanne, eclectic objects of biomorphic sensibilities enshrined into metal sculpture.” From a full metal corset to an armored bodice to metal roses on a simple black set, Ling brings surrealism to the fashion world. Ling’s designs represent a new wave of sustainable fashion that remains just as artistic and symbolic as ever.
The Ukrainian-born, London-based designer presents a unique take on the well-known Y2K style. Complete with colorful patterned jeans stitched with holes in various places, denim halters, dragonfly, and butterfly tops and skirts, Popova redefines the luxury market with wearable pieces that remind viewers of their younger selves. One of my favorite pieces in her new collection is the “terrible bias cute jeans.” These jeans are essentially an elevated version of the I.AM.GIA flare pants, yet they stand out with their unique patterns. Popova’s emphasis on reconstruction is part of what makes the designs stand out. The mix of pattern on pattern is subtle yet unique to the designer's style. Popova’s designs are reshaping the public’s view on the resurgence of early 2000s fashion.
Anne Isabella is a Danish-French designer who is now based in Berlin. She launched her label in 2020 and takes inspiration from vintage pieces. She redesigns modern luxury with a touch of classic pieces, and according to her website, everything is “handmade in an environmentally and socially responsible manner.” The best thing about Isabella’s designs is that they are simple and wearable yet exude a uniqueness, unlike any other designer. Her fabrics are mostly nude, muted colors, yet she has multiple statement pieces throughout her collections. My favorite collection of hers is the FW 23 collection, titled “AMMONITE.” With stunning sheer, patterned fabric and a beautiful silver strapless dress, this collection defines simple luxury. Additionally, her FW 22 collection, “FRAGMENTS,” features denim on-denim looks with almost 3D-looking, ’70s-inspired patterns. Overall, while Anne Isabelle is a highly new label in the fashion industry, her designs revive societal love for elevated yet simple, vintage-inspired pieces.
Based in Brooklyn, Tanner Fletcher is changing the game for genderless fashion. They specialize in ready-to-wear, handbags, home, and jewelry that “push the boundaries between masculinity and femininity.” Their clothes are simple yet elegant and are made wearable by anyone, regardless of gender. They also bridge the gap between interior design and fashion by creating timeless home decor. With vintage tea sets, carved wood book ends, a brass trinket dish, and petit floral candle holders, Tanner Fletcher’s home collection brings their genderless vision to interior design. The most interesting part about their label is that they also sell wedding wear - and these wedding dresses and suits are unlike any other. From a cream suit decked out in light purple bows to a puff sleeve shear lace dress meant for any gender, Tanner Fletcher is paving the way for a more inclusive outlook on wedding wear. Their core collection is relatively simple, featuring creams and whites, yet it holds just as much uniqueness as the wedding collection. Tanner Fletcher mostly features pastels and very “girly” colors, yet they bend gender stereotypes by featuring male and female models in every outfit. Tanner Fletcher is certainly a brand for the future, reshaping societal definitions of classic luxury.
Created by Alice Vaillant, who worked with fashion experts such as Jean-Paul Gaultier and Nina Ricci, Vaillant creates clothing for any occasion. Launched in 2020, Vaillant is inspired by Alice’s ten years spent in the Paris Opera Ballet. Her pieces feature a lot of lace and revolve around performance and movement. Alice specializes in the artful layering of materials, skillfully blending technical elements with freely flowing styles. Her designs showcase geometric and architectural silhouettes artfully juxtaposed with fluid fabrics and materials. Through color, shape, or cut, Alice consistently employs contrast in her creations. One large thing to note about Vaillant’s pieces is that they consistently explore the idea of opposites: “the feminine and the masculine, motion and constraint, openness and rigor, free-flow and direction.” From light off-the-shoulder sweaters to a statement aviator jacket to reconstructed lace singlet tops, Alice Vaillant is creating a luxury brand that mimics many of the popular aesthetics of today.